Perri Skin Care Newsletter
October 2004
Contents
Glycolic Acid - Myths & Facts
Get a 10% Off Coupon
Needling Treatment for Wrinkles, Scars, Stretch Marks
Manicures - Do It Yourself Tips
Featured Product - Serutox Wrinkle Smoother
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Glycolic Acid - Myths & Facts
Since their
introduction to the Cosmetic Industry in the early nineties, alpha hydroxy
acids have taken skin care to new heights. Finally, here was something
that could do what was promised, something that could actually improve
the skin instead of just temporarily affecting the way it looked. This
article will provide you with all the information on alpha hydroxy acids
you need, as well as safety tips to observe with the purchase of a skin
care product containing AHA's.
What
Are Alpha Hydroxy Acids and How Do They Work?
Alpha-hydroxy
acids are naturally occurring acids, derived from the sugars in particular
plants. Some examples are Glycolic Acid (Sugar Cane), Lactic Acid (Milk),
Tartaric Acid (Grapes), Citric Acid (Citrus Fruits), Malic Acid (Apples),
and Mandelic Acid (Bitter Almonds). These acids work at the very base
of the stratum corneum, dissolving the cement that holds dead skin cells
together. This increases cell turnover and influences the structure of
new stratum corneum being made. This results in skin that is more flexible,
more smooth, and more even in tone. At greater concentrations (12%-40%),
deeper dermal effects, such as higher amounts of mucopolysaccharides and
collagen and increased skin thickness, are observed. Eventually, alpha
hydroxy acids will produce skin that is softer, smoother, less wrinkled,
less dehydrated, and more even in skin tone.
The
Myths
There is a lot
of information out about alpha hydroxy acids, however, much of it is misleading
or simply untrue. Separating the truth from the rumors can be nearly impossible
for the average person. Here are a few of the common myths surrounding
alpha hydroxy acids.
Myth #1: Alpha
hydroxy acids thin the skin. Actually, it is quite the opposite. AHA's
at greater bioavailability appear to have dermal affects that influence
the formation of collagen. Alpha hydroxy acids, on topical application
to photoaged skin, have been shown to substantially increase skin thickness.
Skin biopsies revealed increased synthesis of mucopolysaccharides and
collagen as well. >
Myth #2: Alpha
hydroxy acids cause sun sensitivity. Used correctly, alpha hydroxy acids
do not increase sun sensitivity. Sun sensitivity occurs when skin is irritated
and inflammation occurs. Those with very fair coloring are especially
susceptible to this since their skin tends to be more sensitive. Avoiding
high concentrations (15% or more) or products with pH's lower than 3 can
help avoid this. For those with more sensitive skin, use of a non-irritating
AHA such as lactic acid
will help one avoid this problem.
Myth #3: Use of
Salicylic Acid or a Mechanical Scrub (such as microdermabrasion) will produce identical exfoliation
benefits. AHA's actually penetrate the skin to a deeper layer than Salicylic Acid or Microdermabrasion to stimulate new collagen production.
Salicylic acid works from the uppermost layer of the skin, dissolving
skin layer by layer. It is especially useful for thorough cleansing of the pores (which is why it is excellent for Acne and Blackhead removal).
Mechanical Scrubs work only to remove already loosened
skin cells on the upper layer of skin. So, Glycolic Acid and other Alpha hydroxy acids work at the
lowermost levels of the stratum corneum. It appears that AHA's modulate
new stratum corneum formation by weakening the bonds between corneocytes
(a type of skin cell) at the lowest levels of the stratum corneum. This
activity on the formation encourages a smoother, flatter cell layout in
the stratum corneum, and thus smoother, firmer skin on the surface. In conclusion, while Salicylic Acid and Microdermabrasion
are beneficial for exfoliating the skin, Glycolic Acid and other AHA's go a step further by actually penetrating the skin to stimulate new collagen and elastin growth.
This results in firmer, smoother skin on the surface.
Myth #4: Anti-Wrinkle
benefits of AHA's are due to their exfoliating nature. While it is true
that the exfoliating nature of AHA's contribute to softer skin that is
more even in tone, the clinical effects of AHA's in modifying wrinkles
and photoaging are due to increased skin thickness and new collagen formation.
Myth #5: When
using AHA's, the skin looks smoother because the skin is swollen from
inflammation. Improvements in wrinkles are not due to inflammation or
any edema formation (excess accumulation of fluid in tissue spaces). Examination
of biopsied skin specimens before and after treatment with AHA's have
confirmed that skin plumpness and other beneficial effects are sustained
long after discontinuation of topical treatment.
Finding
Effective Alpha Hydroxy Acid Formulations
Not all Alpha Hydroxy acids are created equal!
There are a multitude of Web sites cropping up recently offering Glycolic Acid and other AHA's at low prices. How can they afford to offer at these low prices? Since high quality Alpha Hydroxy acid itself is
expensive, these cheap formulations are of low quality, watered down, and at the end of their shelf life (getting stale and weak)
and are therefore not very effective. You will get what you pay for - a cheap, ineffective, and possible dangerous product.
Others are selling extremely low pH formulations
that damage the skin. They are advertising that their product is stronger (lower pH) and therefore better.
These unscrupulous Web sites are more interested in making their product seem stronger or more effective
on by advertising a low pH in order to sell a product which is not better for the skin, but is actually damaging to the skin.
They don't care, as long as it makes them sell more products to uneducated and unsuspecting consumers.
AHA's with a pH lower than 2.5 will cause irritation and inflamation in the skin.
Irritation and inflammation can contribute to the breakdown of collagen
and result in damage to the skin.
Obviously, if a pH lower than 2.5 is more effective, all reputable skin care companies would formulate their acids with a lower pH. But reputable companies do not want to take advantage of their customers this way!
It's your skin - You have to live with it the rest of your life - If you damage it, you will have
to look at it every day.
A basic rule of
thumb to determine how active an alpha hydroxy acid product is, is to
look at both the concentration of AHA and the pH of the product. An effective
concentration should contain at least 8% alpha hydroxy acid with a pH
between 2.5 (not lower) and 4.0. A pH of 3.0 up to 4.5 is acceptable on products which are left on overnight (treatment creams).
Products for use at home should never contain
over 40% alpha hydroxy acid. For those desiring to use concentrations
of over 40%, a doctor's supervision is required. Acid at these higher concentrations can burn or disfigure the skin permanently.
Not all alpha
hydroxy acids are created equal. Some are more irritating or more moisturizing,
some are better for breakouts, and some are stronger than others. Here,
we will provide an outline of the main alpha hydroxy acids and a brief
description of it, as well as who it is most suitable for.
Glycolic acid,
the most common alpha hydroxy acid found in cosmetic preparations, is
popular mainly because that is the alpha hydroxy acid that has been the
most widely studied. The small molecular structure and the rapid penetration
of glycolic acid make it the most irritating of the group. The possibility
of irritation make glycolic acid more suitable for those with mature or
non-sensitive skin. Those with oilier skin types often prefer glycolic
acid because it sinks into the skin quickly. The consumer
has a wide range of choices with glycolic acid products: gels, serums,
lotions, creams, formulas at varying pH's and concentrations, for that
contain a variety of other age-fighting ingredients.
Lactic acid is
most often found in moisturizers due to its more moisturizing properties.
Lactic acid is a natural humectant that draws and holds water in the upper
layers of the skin. Alpha hydroxy acids as a whole can increase the skin's
ability to trap water due to an increased production of natural skin moisturizers
(hyaluronic acid), but lactic acid's extra humectant properties make it
even more ideal for treating dry skin. Lactic acid's larger molecule size
makes it less irritating than glycolic acid. Also, because lactic acid
is naturally found in the human body, it is not likely to cause an allergic
reaction in those with reactive skin. Lactic Acid is ideal for those with
slightly sensitive, dry skin or allergy-prone skin. It is also slightly more effective than Glycolic
Acid at evening out skin tone and reducing skin discolorations.
What
precautions should you take with Alpha Hydroxy Acids?
The most
important precaution you can take with alpha hydroxy acids is to know
the percent and pH level of the product. Always start off at alpha hydroxy
acid levels of 10% or less. If you desire to step up the concentration,
it is important that you do it slowly to let your skin adjust to each level of strength. Always
stay at levels where irritation is minimal. Also, watch the pH level.
The ideal pH is 3.0-4.0 for treatment creams and gels that are to be left on all night, and 2.5-3.0 for peels and products that are meant to be
rinsed off within a couple of minutes. A lower pH will make the product too acidic;
any higher and the product's exfoliating benefits may be nullified. Even
at lower levels, though, some alpha hydroxy acids can be irritating, depending
on how sensitive your skin is. Lactic acid is the recommended AHA for
those with sensitive skin, since it is the most non-irritating. Also,
darker skin types should avoid glycolic acid in concentrations higher
than 15%, due to the risk of hyperpigmentation. Hyperpigmentation will
occur in darker skin if it becomes irritated or inflamed, so watch your
skin carefully. Those with an Asian, Latin, Island, Eastern European,
or Middle Eastern background should be especially careful and avoid irritating
products.
More is not always better!!! Irritation and inflammation will do more
damage than
good. Never rush into the higher AHA concentrations. Be patient and realistic,
and you should always be pleased with the results.
Remember, irritation will cause sun sensitivity, so one should always
wear a sunscreen especially if one is using alpha hydroxy acids products
with a low pH (2.5-3.0) or a high concentration. A minimum SPF of 15 is
recommended for daily use, though an SPF of 30 is best.
For more information
on sunscreens, click
here.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids are fruit derived and natural. A concentration under
15% should be safe for use during pregnancy. Anything with a strength higher than 15% should be avoided if pregnant or nursing.
Can
I use Alpha Hydroxy Acids with other products?
Alpha
Hydroxy Acids are ideal for use with other products since they can enhance
the penetration of ingredients into the skin. The one important thing
to watch out for and be wary of are signs of irritation. It is always
recommended to alternate the application of the AHA product and the prescription
or other anti-aging cream. This is especially important with aggressive
products like Retin-A, Renova, bleaching therapies, retinol, and acne
topicals. It is always better to be careful with your skin and avoid overdoing
it. Irritation and inflammation can contribute to the breakdown of collagen
and result in damage to the skin.
One of our best-selling Glycolic Acid products is our 30% Glycolic Acid Peel Kit
Our best-selling Peel Kit! See results from the very first treatment!
Click here to buy.
Another customer favorite is our 15% Glycolic Acid Gel
Exfoliate and regenerate your skin with this nightly treatment gel.
Click here to buy.
Don't forget to check out our complete selection of Glycolic Acid Cleansers, Toners, Creams, Scrubs, and Peels!
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Needling Treatment for Wrinkles, Scars, Stretch Marks
Skin Needling is an exiting new treatment, using tattoo needles, which has been shown to:
- Smooth Wrinkles
- Improve Skin Texture
- Relax Scars
- Treat Acne Scarring
- Remove Stretch Marks
Skin Needling or Needle Abrasion, is also known as Intra-Dermabrasion. It has similar results to Laser, Chemical
Peels and other Dermabrasion treatments but with less damage to the epidermis.
This gives better long-term results as more healthy skin and blood vessels are left intact to
promote healing and deposit collagen.
Frequent ongoing treatments are still possible, unlike other
methods of resurfacing which eventually thin and age the skin due to the destruction of whole layers
of epidermis.
How is is done?
Treatment is performed with the use of a commercial Tattoo machine. Multiple shallow puncture
wounds are made through the skin creating dermal damage. This dermal damage induces the release of growth
factors that stimulate the production of more collagen and elastin.
This is the object of ALL skin resurfacing and rejuvenation treatments.
Intra-Dermabrasion creates minimal dermal damage without the removal of the
healthy epidermis, which happens with other resurfacing techniques.
Because the epidermis is left intact, the healing period is rapid. The skin
does not experience sun sensitivity, skin colour loss, hyper-pigmentation or thinning of the skin.
Standard care and cleanliness are all that is required during healing.
What areas of the skin can be treated?
Intra-Dermabrasion can treat sensitive areas that other treatments have to avoid, such as
lower eyelids and neck and the back of hands.
Intra-Dermabrasion creates a softer skin texture and softens the fibrous bands to give more flexibility in
movement and a more natural blended appearance.
Intra-Dermabrasion, skin needling, for scars and wrinkles has been popular in other
countries and its use for scar tissue is well known and utilized by plastic surgeons in the United States, Europe, Canada an South Africa.
This treatment is ideal for Acne Scarring.
The Skin Needling effect of Intra Dermabrasion can stimulate natural Melanin
(skin colour) into damaged areas such as, Stretchmarks, Sun spots and Laser scarring.
Healing - How much time does it take to recover from the Needling Treatment?
The skin is red and swollen for a few days with a light scab covering the treated area.
This happens with any skin penetration procedure. However, a light cover of make-up will
conceal any marks so a normal routine may be continued.
Outer healing occurs within 4-5 days.
Although some immediate improvement is noted, inner healing (dermis) continues to smooth
and tighten the skin for the next 6-9 months as collagen is laid down in a smoother,
more regular manner.
Multiple Treatments are Possible
Fine lines and wrinkles may only need one procedure.
Medium depth wrinkles may initially need two, each treatment being 4-6 months apart.
Severely deep wrinkles may initially need three treatments 4-6 months apart.
Because Intra-Dermabrasion does not destroy the epidermis, and in fact improves
skin texture and thickens the dermis, this treatment can be repeated many times.
This is the only technique that allows multiple treatments without destroying the outer layer of skin.
In comparison to prolonged recovery time from laser and chemical peels, a few days healing
period is a desirable alternative.
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Manicures - Do It Yourself Tips
Ten
Steps to Give yourself an at Home Manicure
This is a fun, easy, and safe way to
achieve polished fingernails without paying the higher beauty store
prices when going through these ten steps. This is for adults only, or
to do with adult supervision for younger girls, always keeping safety
in mind, and always putting the products out of reach of children and pets after use.
Before
beginning, wash your nails thoroughly, even with the polish on your
fingernails. Try mostly to get your nails clean underneath your nail
cartilage where it is not attached to the skin before beginning. If
you notice growths, tiny knobs under there, or any redness or dirt
substance that does not come out from under your fingernail bed, stop
this process, and go to see a medical doctor.
You will need:
- 1 pack of cotton balls
- 1 fingernail polish remover
- 1 emery board
- 1 nail trimmer
- 1 cuticle remover
- 1 bottle of fingernail polish
- A couple of paper towels
Nail polish removing
First, take out as many cotton balls as
needed one at a time, and safely douse each fingernail with nail
polish remover, until your whole fingernail is your natural true
color. It is available now at the stores in bottle or sponge form in a
bottle. For the sponge type, you have to dip your finger into the
container, usually a plastic one, and swish your finger around
frequently checking it to make sure your fingernail polish is coming
off. For the fingernail polish in the bottle without a sponge embedded
in it, you have to carefully tip it about a fourth of the way over
using the cotton ball at the top to stop up the top from spilling out
all over, and If you need to, you can have some paper towel handy to
wipe off any excess fingernail polish remover that spills over as a
result. Whichever fingernail polish remover you choose, swab your
fingernails one by one until they are your natural color.
If you frequently use fingernail polish,
your natural nail can become tinted a little of a yellowing color, not
to be confused with bold yellow, and not red or green, or swollen. If
your fingernails or fingers start to become red, green, or swollen,
seek medical attention immediately. If you are doing ok, and your
nails are now their natural color, go to step 2.
Filing your nails with an emery
board
Next, you should have what is called an
emery board. An emery board is usually a very inexpensive fingernail
board used for filing down rough nail surfaces that is rough on the
surface at least on one side. An emery board should not be used to
scrape your natural nail surface at all. It will make your smooth
fingernails rough.
You can use the emery board quite
effectively on the end of your nail, in order to give it a consistent
shape and make the tip of your nail smooth, not rough. Emery board
comes in all shapes and sizes, and you can even look for one to fit
your personality or wardrobe color-wise. As soon as you are done
smoothing the tips of your nails in a uniform manner, proceed to the
next step 3.
Trimming your fingernails
A fingernail trimmer is used in your home
nail process when you want to reshape or shorten your nails more
efficiently than with an emery board. You can make your fingernails
shorter using fingernail clippers, which are clippers that are small
in size designed to fit your nail shape and be able to cut your
fingernail tip surface, without having enough force in them to really
do massive cutting damage, but still use safety.
You should trim your nails at least once
a month if they are healthy. Never trim unhealthy, discolored or
brittle fingernails. Never trim your nails to the quick, which is the
place where your fingernail cartilage meets your skin.
Be mindful of safety, even at this stage
of the process. If you have hypoglycemia, or any other disease such as
Parkinson’s or nerves, do not clip your own fingernails if you might
have an issue of safety. Some fingernails are hard, and take some
sharper fingernail cutters to cut through them. If this is the case
with yours, you may want to consider going to a salon or a simple
medical visit and have a professional trim them. However, if not, trim
away. Then
start with step #4.
Cuticle removing
Next, you need to use your cuticle
remover to remove your cuticle, or actually push it down. Your cuticle
is that soft skin that forms at the bottom of your fingernail at the
place where your fingernail cartilage and your skin meet. It is just
like a foreskin. Its job is to cover the place where your nail
cartilage meets your skin, and make a smooth transition for that to
happen. As your fingernails grow, your cuticle skin stretches, and
this process of removing your cuticle pushes back that excess to
promote your nail growth and health.
Again, you would want to check your
cuticle area for rashes, redness, swelling, discoloration of any kind,
and if any of those issues are present in your cuticle, seek the
advice of a medical professional before pushing it back.
If you find that it looks pretty much
like your fingernail and finger color, but with a different smoother
and softer texture, go ahead and push the cuticle back with the
cuticle remover, which is a little stick like device with a softer but
firm tip made especially for the cuticle. It is not a cutting type
tool. It looks a little shorter than a chopstick, but has a necessary
soft tipped end to make sure that your cuticle does not get damaged.
Push back your cuticles one at a time
using the cuticle removing tool. These are available from nearly any
beauty supply store, or store that carries fingernail accessories of
any kind. These are also relatively inexpensive.
It is important to note that if at any
time in your process for any reason, if your nails start to bleed
mildly or a lot, stop this procedure at once. This is not likely to
happen in a normal fingernail manicure, but it may be a nice way of
warning you of a problem with your own nails that you may need to get
medical attention for.
Choose a color
Now you are ready to pick out a nail
polish color from your own home nail polish collection. Pick out a
color that matches your skin coloring, outfit styles that you wear, or
shade of lipstick. If you polish your nails frequently, make sure that
you give them one or two days to air out and breathe naturally to
promote healthy nails in between polishes.
Application of finger nail polish
color
Each bottle of nail polish comes with
it's own applicator inside the bottle, attached to the handle of the
fingernail polish bottle. Just unscrew the fingernail polish bottle,
and scrape off the excess fingernail polish on the fingernail polish
brush applicator on the side of the bottle itself. You can use a paper
towel for this process, but you may end up with paper towel residue
mixed into your color, so I would not recommend it. Also, you need to
make sure that you have a steady hand for this in order to get your
finger nail polish on your fingernail area only, not on your skin.
Skin always needs to breathe, and cannot with polish on it.
When you are ready, take the applicator
holding non-dripping color to your nails, brushing from the base of
your fingernails upward towards the top tip of your nail. Make sure
you coat your whole nail evenly. Starting at the base of the nail and
applying polish in an upward motion helps you evenly coat your nail.
Correcting polish mistakes
If you make a mistake, take a paper towel
and douse it with nail polish remover as you did with the cotton ball
in step one, and try to get the excess polish off your skin using the
flat edge of the paper towel. Then, if you need to re-coat that
fingernail, go ahead. If not, great. Just move on to the next
fingernail until you are done.
Second coats of nail polish
Wait at least ten minutes before applying
a second coat. You should not paint over your nails another time
unless your nail polish is dry the first time. Without air, or low to
medium speed fans blowing on them, it will take about five minutes for
your fingernails to dry. Using high-speed fans near your wet nail
polish can move your fingernail polish around your fingernail and mess
its even coat up.
Quick drying nails
You can buy the quick drying kind of nail
polish at the stores, or a quick drying sealer that is clear over the
color of your nail polish to quicken drying if you are in a hurry. As
a reminder, do not attempt to polish your fingernails in an area that
does not have proper ventilation.
Finger Nail Health: How to Strenghten Them
Finger nail health will keep you from suffering from some
painful tissue conditions. Get those long nails you've
always wanted, it isn't too difficult if you take some
simple precautions.
Long fingernails have been the envy of women for ages and research is
still being done today to find a way to create the perfect nail tonic
that will turn dry, cracked and brittle nails into long, strong beauties
in two weeks or less. As of right now, there are no real miracle
applications to make this happen or wed all be running around with three
inch nails asking the guys to pick things up for us and open our soda
cans. There are, however, a few ways you can build up the strength of
your nails, get them to grow a bit and maybe keep them from splitting or
breaking so easily.
One of the natural enemies of fingernails is water. Water softens up
the fingernails and makes them prime target for disaster. Couple water
with a vigorous activity such as cleaning, scrubbing, scraping, washing
dishes, doing laundry, etc. and you may as well kiss your nails goodbye.
When you clean, wear rubber gloves no matter what. Even if your task
will only take a minute or two, don those gloves. Rubber gloves keep
your nails dry and they protect them from activities that normally cause
nail breakage, like taking wet laundry from the washing machine.
At night, you can condition your nails while you sleep. Get some
white cotton gloves and before you go to bed, slather on a generous
amount of hand cream and put the gloves on over it. This well help
condition your nails to make them more flexible and as an added bonus,
your hands will be baby soft!
What you put inside your body can be just as important as what you do
to the outside of it. If you want to have good strong nails, you have to
be sure you are getting good nutrition. Calcium is a necessary nutrient
for strong fingernails and you need plenty of vitamin D to help your
body absorb it. When women are pregnant the often find their nails
growing better than ever before, this is because of the bodies increased
ability to absorb nutrients during this time.
Finally, never bite your nails and do not use them as tools. Nails
can be great for picking off stickers, etc. but if you use them like
letter openers, they are going to disappear faster than you can grow
them.
Our favorite nail strengthening product is the: Copper Peptide Nail Renewal Cream
The Copper Peptide in the product will nourish, protect, and restore the beauty of your nails, and the skin around your nails.
Click here to buy.
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