Makeup Tips
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Makeup Tips
10-Step Make-Over
1. Begin with a clean face and apply a small amount of moisturizer. This will allow for a smoother makeup application.
2. Apply cover stick (either light or medium) to any area of discoloration that you would like to conceal. Typically, used under the eyes, on 'sun spots' and on blemishes.
3. Using a makeup sponge or your fingertips to apply makeup foundation.
4. Apply translucent powder to set the foundation and create a 'matte' finish. Apply in downwards strokes over the face.
5. If you need to add color to your eyebrows, eye liner pencils can be used for this purpose. Use the pencil before brushing the brows. Apply in short, natural-looking strokes. Follow with brushing which will blend and soften the color.
6. Apply a pale eye color over the entire upper eyelid. This provides a base color as other colors are applied. Apply a deeper color in the crease of the eyelid or on the outer portion. Use colors that will enhance the natural eye color - - generally, by contrast.
7. Apply eye pencil in a design that flatters the shape of your eyes. Try a variety of designs, such as just a 'V' of liner in the outer corner. Try liner just on the lower lid or just on the upper lid. If you apply liner on the lower lid, 'set' it with a little Translucent Powder, then it will last even longer.
8. Apply mascara sparingly, one coat at a time. Natural mascaras take just a little longer to dry because it does not contain evaporating alcohol. Comb or brush the eyelashes between coats to avoid caking or clumping. Allow the mascara to dry completely between coats.
9. Blush used on the cheeks 'perks up' a complexion and creates a youthful look. Choose a color that goes with your basic skin tone - - warm or cool.
10. Apply the appropriate color of lipstick and finish off - - when necessary - - with creamy Lip Gloss or 'matte' Translucent (finishing) Powder.
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Makeup Tips
MAKE-UP ARTISTRY BASICS
Make up artistry is the use of design and color to accentuate the best features of a face and to minimize the poor ones. Its applications can be used for day, evening and fantasy makeup. Begin a makeup on a clean face that has been moisturized.
SUPPLIES:
FOUNDATIONS
are designed to even skin tone with a light coverage that matches the natural complexion color. It is not necessary to use foundation all over the face - - use it only where it is needed or desired. Blend the foundation at the jaw line. It is not recommended to apply on the neck as it will rub off on clothing. Be aware that the color of your foundation may need to change with the seasons, particularly if you are exposed to the sun.
CONCEALERS/CAMOUFLAGE CREAMS
are used to cover skin discoloration and blemishes and to even skin tone in specific areas. Concealer is excellent used under the eyes for dark circles, but if puffiness is present, it will draw attention to it. Avoid this. If you need to apply a thick layer of concealer, use two light applications rather than a heavy one. Do not apply concealer on 'crow's feet'. Instead, apply moisturizer.
TRANSLUCENT POWDER
is used to set makeup so it will last longer and to create a smooth, even, velvety finish. It helps prevent shine-through of oily skin and help to minimize color and texture imperfections. Translucent powder is best applied with a large fluff brush but a cotton ball will do. Apply it in downward or horizontal strokes. Older skin should use very little of a translucent powder so the skin does not look dry. It is excellent used in the T-zone of combination skin to cut down on the shine. Generally, the powder is not applied around the eyes.
EYELINERS
were initially designed to make the lashes look thicker. Today they are also used to define and design the shape of the eye. The eyeliner should be applied very close to the lashes - - even in-between the lashes. It can be applied all around the eye, on just the upper lid, on just the lower lid, on half of the upper and half of the lower or any variation that is flattering or serves the purpose of your design. The best way to sharpen eye lining pencils is to put them in the freezer overnight. In the morning, sharpen as usual.
EYE SHADOWS
are used to enhance the natural eye through color and design. Color should by applied with a light touch, adding more if needed. Do not match your eye color with your eye shadow color. Contrasting colors will better enhance your natural eye color. Be aware that too much eye shadow can make the eyes look smaller. If you use several different colors, be certain to blend them and they look attractive with the eye closed.
MASCARA
is used to define, thicken and lengthen the natural lashes. Apply mascara to the top side of the upper lashes and then the underneath side. Allow to dry. Apply one coat to the lower lashes. Allow to dry. Repeat, if desired. If clumping occurs, use a brush or eyelash comb to separate the lashes. Matching the eyeliner with the mascara will create the illusion of very thick lashes. Eyelashes can be powdered with translucent powder between coats for extra thickness.
BLUSHERS
are used to 'perk' up the complexion and to create a youthful look. It can accentuate the cheekbones. Blushers are considered to be the #1 beauty booster. It unifies or ''pulls together' in face. Blend the blush perfectly into the cheeks where you would naturally blush - - on the apple of the cheek. Do not apply close to the nose. If you are over 35 use it sparingly. If you have applied too much, go over it with your translucent powder.
LIPSTICKS
are used to define and emphasize the lips. Outline the lips with the lipstick itself or a LIP PENCIL, then, fill in the lips with the color and blot. For long lasting lip color, moisturize the lips, apply foundation and translucent powder then apply lip color and blot. Your lip color and blush should be in the same color family.
TOOLS
Tweezers, cotton swabs, sponge applicators (for both eye shadow and for foundation), cotton balls a variety of brushes (especially a translucent powder brush and blush brush)
SEQUENCE
Makeup can be applied in whatever order you would like, however, it is generally applied in this sequence:
concealer, foundation, translucent powder, eye liner, eye shadow, mascara, blush, lip liner, lipstick, lip gloss
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Makeup Tips
COLOR
Color is defined as the quality of an object or substance with respect to the light that is reflected by it. The key word in this definition is 'light'. Without light, there is no color. Color is created by a physiological phenomenon in our nervous system and through our eyes. So, without light, color does not exist. Color is one of the most dominating influences in our day to day lives. It is all around us. It effects our moods and our health:
Red: stimulates and increases vitality.
Orange: opens the mind to new ideas, increases vitality, uplifts; has been called the 'wisdom ray'.
Yellow: raises the spirits, builds nerves and sharpens the memory; called the 'mental ray'.
Green: mental relaxation; feelings of peace; good for tired eyes; the color of life, harmony and health; balanced.
Blue: cooling, relaxing; antiseptic; lonely.
Indigo: can be described as a very blue purple; is the color most often forgotten in the color spectrum; its qualities are very much like blue.
Violet: the 'quiet' color; the color of meditation and spirituality; light and soothing to the nerves.
Color is a sensation in our consciousness. Objects are colorless. We see wavelengths of light that are being reflected by the object. Some wavelengths are absorbed and others are reflected. A yellow object absorbs all wavelengths except yellow which is reflected in the eye. The color we see develops in three stages: Physics - - the energy of the light emits color vibrations, Physiological - - the eye's photosensitive cells transform the vibrations into nerves impulses received by the optical nerve center. Here, color is born. Psychological - - the nerve center gives us color perception and all of its influences.
USING COLOR IN MAKE-UP ARTISTRY
Each of the colors in a full-spectrum is a vibration that travels in waves, each having a different length. Red is the longest and violet is the shortest. From these colors, man invented the color wheel. A color wheel has primary colors which are red, blue and yellow and the secondary colors which are orange, green and purple. Then, there are the intermediary color which is every color in between and the combinations are infinite. It is from this color wheel that all colors are possible. Neither white or black are considered colors. The color wheel is divided into colors that are cools and colors that are warm. The line is drawn down the center of the yellow and purple. The warm colors have more yellow in them and the cool colors have more blue in them. Understanding color can help us to use it more artistically in makeup application. Using it well creates a masterpiece and using it poorly can mean an aesthetic disaster. When using color to make a person more attractive, that person has a given set of colors to work with - some you can change and some you cannot. The skin tone and the eye color cannot be changed. For this reason, the hair, the clothes, the makeup and the accessories must relate to or compliment the natural colors of the eyes and skin.
GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR PICKING THE MOST FLATTERING COLORS
Color is a relationship. Colors are almost never isolated. They are usually next to another color. It is this relationship of colors that will make them 'work' or 'not work'. Relating means to connect in thought or meaning. This relationship also defines the color. Comparing and moving colors is very helpful to understand individual colors and how they work together.
Color and its relationship is subjective. Not only do people physically perceive color slightly different but they also feel differently about different colors. What is beautiful to one person may not to another. Subjective means to rely upon ones personal feelings or opinions. There is no right or wrong. This is your artistic freedom. The best learning will come from your own experiences and from those whose work you like and admire.
If the use of color is subjective, then there are no rules. If there are no rules, then how do you pick colors? By experience and guidelines. It is your experience that will make you an artist. Using guidelines is always safe but may lack flair and personal expression. However, they are great for getting you started until your experience dictates your use of color.
GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR MAKE-UP COLOR SELECTION
Makeup can be one of the most creative and satisfying expressions of the artist within all of us. It can transform plain women into gorgeous creatures. It can be subtle and it can be blatant. The appreciation of a makeup application is subjective. To your eye, it will either 'work' or it won't. There are two main factors to consider before applying makeup.
1: What COLORS to use?
2: What DESIGN to use?
To determine what colors to use:
Look at yourself, without makeup and decide what are your personal colors: eyes, skin and hair. Are they warm or cool colors? Remember that warm has a yellow base and cool has a blue base. Generally, you will want to use warm color makeup on warm colored skin. The same is true for cool colors. In some cases, this can look monotonous, so you might perk it up with a carefully selected accent color. Don't forget to use contrasting colors in the same family by using light and dark of the same color. Before you begin applying the makeup, be clear in your mind, what it is you are trying to achieve.
Generally, the cheek color and lip color should be from the same color group (warm or cool). However, they can be of different intensities. Daytime makeup should be light and natural; evening makeup can be more dramatic, sophisticated and brighter.
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Makeup Tips
Applying Camouflage Cream/Concealer
In order for camouflage therapy to be effective, it has to cover extremely well and protect an nourish the skin.It has to cover imperfections and return skin to natural tone and texture without being heavy. It has to be long-lasting and waterproof; and to be used by everyone, a camouflage line has to include a complete range of skin tones.
The GlyMed Camouglage Creamscome in a wide variety of shades and should be matched to the skin around the lesion, scar, or skin area you are trying to camouglage.
When dealing with scars, it is important to remember that the texture is different from that of the surrounding skin.
The application of a camouflage cream to conceal a scar can only be accomplished if the skin is clean and no moisturizer is used.
The camouflage must be dabbed on with a sponge, a small brush, or cotton-tipped applicator and not rubbed in. It should be applied to the scar only, and not the surrounding skin.
The technique for covering up lesions (such as acne, rosacea, skin irritations)is slightly different. The shade of cover is matched to the skin near the lesion; a mixture of two shades may be required to achieve the desired final tone. A small amount of cream is taken from the container(s) with a small spatula, or a q-tip, or a small brush, and placed in the palm of the hand where it becomes warm enough to spread.
Then it is applied in a patting motion over the lesion and the adjacent area. The cream is carefully blended around the edges and not touched for a minute or two so as to allow it to dry. After this, the concealer is fixed with the generous application of setting powder.
Any excess powder remaining is brushed away after about 5 minutes. It is easier to cover flat lesions than raised ones, and hard smooth scars or burns may need to have the process repeated several times.
When color is the major barrier to a normal appearance as with such conditions as vitiligo (blotched coloration), hypo- or hyperpigmented scars, burn scars, or birthmarks, concealer makeup may be the major source of therapy. Probably no part of passing in the feminine role receives more requests for tips and advice than makeup although a couple months reading of most any womens magazine will provide you with more information on the subject than anyone is ever likely to need. But because it is such a requested topic we have prepared this quick primer for the absolute beginner.
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Makeup Tips
Transgender Makeup Tips
Foundation -
There are lots of great brands on the market, but no matter what specific brand or type of foundation you choose, it should match your skin tone as closely as possible.
Apply a small amount to test the color on your cheek and your neck, nar your jawline, the goal here is to have the makeup to blend down onto your neck without a visible line.
Apply foundation with a small natural sponge rather than a synthetic one. A natural sponge is only slightly more money and will often give a smoother result. You might prefer to appy the foundation with your fingertips. Choose the method that is easiest for you.
But whatever method you use, apply the color with as little water as possible (only slightly moisten the sponge first), if you get streaks let the foundation dry before you try to smooth it out, you will probably find the streaks will disappear as the makeup dries.
If using a cream or stick makeup, a synthetic sponge is usually preferrable. Keep in mind, cream makeups generally require powder to set them, however they do offer the opportunity to blend contour coloring into the cream base before powdering.
If you are covering a heavily textured skin surface (like acne), or need to use a bit more to color to cover a beard shadow then cream makeups may be your best choice. After applying the foundation lightly and evenly all over your face, and adding contour colors to blend areas as needed, you're ready to use your powder to set the cream.
Apply a dusting of power over all of the foundation adding a little extra powder to the forehead and moustache area (because perspiration is heavier there), and allow the powder to sit for a few minutes before brushing off the excess. A big, soft, blush brush is usually ideal for dusting off excess powder.
Corrective Makeup and Beard Cover -
If you're being photographed for a portrait, use camouflage or corrective makeup to sculpt the shape of your face sparingly, unless you really are experienced in appling, since corrective work usually requires the assistance of a professional makeup artist.
For everyday wear, too much corrective/camouflage work tends to look artificial and should be used sparingly.
Rather than going overboard using highlight and lowlight colors to try and resculpt aspects of your looks that you are not happy about it is often much more effective and natural looking to instead emphasize other areas.
For example, for a strong or prominent nose focus attention on your eyes or mouth. Likewise, if you are not happy with the overall shape of your face try changing your hairstyle instead, a soft hairstyle can work wonders towards downplaying a squarer masculine jawline.
Many beard cover products marketed through the TG specialty outlets can often give you an unnatural orangy look. A simpler and sometimes more effective solution is simply to apply an excessively light shade of ordinary foundation (some TGs claim clown white is the best) to the shadow areas first. Once this color has dried apply your regular color over it and on the rest of your face.
Blush -
Choose a soft pinkish shade similar to your foundation color, one you can safely dust on your forehead, chin, and cheeks for a healthy glow. Strong raspberry or red shades are more difficult to be subtle with.
You can however soften the the color by first dipping your brush in translucent powder and then into the blush. Blush belongs on the apple of the cheek (puckering your lips and sucking in your cheeks can make this area easier to see). Be careful to keep the color away from any part of your face you are trying to minimize. For example, if you have a wide face don't brush it all the way out to your hairline, instead keep it more central so you won't call attention to the width.
Eye Makeup -
The eyes are perhaps the one area that often seems to give people the most trouble, Almost everyone wants to use brightly colored or frosted eyeshadows, but generally it is best to start off with neutral colors like taupe, charcoal, brown and off white since it is less difficult to overdo these colors.
Typical eye shading makeup usually involes the use of three complimentary colors, a light color used below the eyebrow to the crease of the eyelid, a darker shade along the crease, and a contrasting shade on the eyelid itself closest to the eyelash.
To begin with it is a good idea to brush the entire lid area with a neutral colored shadow. Then with a eyeshadow brush use the darkest color you are using and create a crease following the natural crease in your eye.
Starting from the outer corner of the eye, sweep the shadow inward to half of your lid using the same darker color. The area by the inner eye that is colorless can then be colored with a contrast color to your dark color, blending these colors starting from the outside in so that in effect the darker color should slightly overlap the contrast lighter color.
Last, apply a very light color on the brow bone to right under the brow to highlight that area.
After the shadow has been applied to your liking, an eyeliner is usually the next step. Draw a line with your pencil liner as close to the eyelash as possible (don't worry about making it too thin). Then use your slanted eyebrow makeup brush to smudge the line following the shape of your eye. This will thicken the actual line and thicken the look when the eye is relaxed and make it look less dramatic.
The final step is mascara. First curl the lashes with an eyelash curler. Dip the mascara wand into the tube just once for each lash (use a tissue to wipe excess mascara from the brush before applying), then working from the outer corner inward, place the brush at the lash base and sweep upward to the tips. To minimize clumping, use as few strokes as possible.
A note on eyebrows: Female eyebrows are usually thinner and more arched than a males, bit there are tricks that you can try to help in this area without resorting to plucking or electrolysis.
Lift the brow slightly to give it a more feminine arch by bleaching out a few of the lower hairs by painting them with foundation then lift the peak of the brow with a few strokes of eyebrow pencil. Just don't overdo it, you don't want brows that look like they were painted on.
Lip Color -
Softer shades of red are usually best to begin with, brighter reds can sometimes tend to highlight problem area in your appearance, yet as you gain more experience with cosmetics you will probably start wanting to coordinate more with your skin tone, clothing or nail colors.
Outlining the lip with a lip liner pencil, then filling in with color is often the easiest technique for the beginner. If you have thin lips and need to make them appear fuller paint your lips slightly outside your upper and lower lip line, but try increasing the size slowly since you dont want to overdo it.
Mix your own colors by using different lipsticks on top of one another, like a neutral light pink shade on top of a deeper red. Powdering the first coat of lipstick then applying a second coat, will sometimes help it last longer.
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